I had to give Switzerland a couple days to digest - it was so wonderful and I needed to gather my thoughts. I should have posted this days ago - but Amsterdam and Brussels have made me lazy!! Unfortunately - it has now passed a week since I was in Switzerland....what has happened to me??!! I need a good smacking!!
Some of you remember how I went to Switzerland back in May 2009 with the illustrious plan of hiking in the Alps - thankfully, I was able to complete that part of the mission, but alas - later that SAME night, at a lovely picnic organized for me by my Swiss friend, Sylvain - I managed to make a complete fool out of myself and tore the ACL in my knee while playing beach volleyball. That effectively brought my trip to a halt, but not quite an end. Poor Sylvain was saddled with a crippled individual, hobbling around on European crutches and suffering through one the worst allergy attacks I can remember. I could have absolutely clawed my eyes out they itched so badly. Sylvain put up with me - always with a smile and has always invited me back to Switzerland.
The original Swiss plan in 2009 was to include trips to both Bern and the Lavaux vineyards in the Vevey area (this is between Geneva and Montreaux directly on Lake LeMan (aka Lake Geneva)..). Hostels were booked, cycles were rented for a trip through the vines, and the generous guidance of Sylvain's father was engaged....all for naught. Back to the US - dream unfulfilled :(
Skip forward now to August 2011 - having kept in touch with Sylvain through FB over the past couple of years - and thanks to couchsurfing originally - I was treated to a stupendous weekend of mostly sunny skies, stunning views of the lake and mountains, unparalleled generosity and "feasts" of both local knowledge, history and lore - as well as the truest of the TRUE Swiss fondue.
I left Lyon and arrived by train in Vevey a mere 2.5 hours later at 1:30pm. Sylvain and I weren't due to meet up until 5:30pm, so I had some time to kill. I didn't want to drag my bag around for hours, so I went in search of a nice place to hang out. I wound down a couple cobblestoned streets (which are not nice to drag a bag on...), admiring the windows sills and colors that are unique to Swiss towns - bright blues, yellows and reds adorn the windows and coordinate with the multitudes of flowers everywhere you look - hanging planters, window boxes, street vendor bouquets, and public planters burst with variety. The colors that I saw the most and that defined Switzerland for me were Red, Pink and White - or Rouges, Rose et Blanc. This combination is everywhere....which I find odd, b/c you don't often put red and pink together so much. But, the Swiss do and it is charming.
I came around a corner and stopped dead in my tracks - there was the lake shimmering just a couple blocks away. Bingo!!
This section of Lake LeMan is the essence of Switzerland - a shining blue lake surrounded by soaring mountains, clouds hanging lazily on the peaks - swans floating along the bank, a river walk covered with flowers, benches, statues and cafes....really, it was a postcard. I grabbed a kebab and plopped down under a tree - near a statue of Charlie Chaplin, a famous Vevey resident, and smiled at the wonderful "trip" moment I was having. I had NO idea this was going to be so picturesque. A nap was in order after my sandwich - the grass was soft, a light breeze was blowing and the air was clear. Ahhhhhh....
When I woke up, it was time to start heading back for the train station. Sylvain and I met up exactly on time - the Swiss and their time obsession - hugged it out for a couple minutes and then headed for the car. He explained again that we were heading for his childhood house and that his dad was waiting outside for us....and that he didn't speak English. Good thing Sylvain was there to translate....although, I think Jean-Louis and I were doing a pretty good job of making ourselves understood towards the end of my visit.
The Herminjard's live 5 minutes or so from the station in a town called Corseaux. We pulled up to the house - which has been in the family since the early 20th century - unloaded and trooped inside. SO CHARMING!! Four floors full of family memorabilia and views from 3 floors that are not to be believed!! The house commands a stunning view of Lake Leman, the mountains, the Rhine delta, the Nestle headquarters and the vineyards of Lavaux. Oh.....My......God. Oh.....My......God. I must have said that 3 or 4 times in a row when I stepped into my bedroom - Sylvain's room growing up - and saw - again - the French doors, leading out onto a balcony - with a totally unhindered view of "The Best of Switzerland". Oh.....My.....God. I needed a minute to collect myself - I may have danced up and down like a little leprechaun...squealing and laughing....there is no telling - I went into a state of giddy shock.
I think they appreciated my reaction b/c when you live with this view every day - you need a reminder every now and then - that you are incredibly lucky to call this place and this view "Home" - which they do. Jean- Louis, Sylvain's dad, has lived in that town his entire life....and loved every minute of it. He grew up surrounded by the vineyards of Lavaux, the joy of the Alps, the cheeses and products of that area, was friends with Charlie Chaplin for 20 years and knows every speck of history. He has a joy about him that can only come when you have "your place in the world" and you're happy with it.
My first night had me and Sylvain finally leaving the house on our way to a very special, private "club" called Le Caveaux. Yup....The Cave. All over this part of Switzerland, private bars and wine clubs exist only for the locals - you have to know somebody or you can't go in. Not in a fancy-schmancy New York club kind of way....just an understood, locals kind of way that this either "is" or "isn't" your place, thank you very much. Jean-Louis had called ahead and arranged for me and Sylvain to visit this special place in Corseaux.....and how cool it was!! There were a couple people inside, just throwing back beers and tasting the local vin....I met Jerome, Pierre, Dominique and Martine.....and guess what they were playing.....uh huh....Amy Winehouse. Picture a dark, sultry, rounded off room with dark plaster walls hung with the wackiest local sculptures - metal animals from re-used and re-cycled items....all backlit by candles. Local wine posters and advertisements for wine festivals....dark wooden floors... a small bar, a little upstairs area, barrels as tables and the back end of the room looks like the top of a wine barrel....20 ft. high. That was Le Caveaux.
We spent a couple hours there and then went off in search of food in Vevey. Stuffed with a Kebab meal (again) - we walked the 30 minutes home - past the gorgeous lake, past the Nestle HQ, up the winding streets of Corsiere, past the Funicular, up the mountain....back to Sylvain's house. Fell into bed and drifted off to silence and a breeze from the lake.
The next day was a big one....lots to see....and the promise of a fantastic night....Fondue in the Carnotzet. What is a Carnotzet? A Carnotzet is a traditional Swiss room - generally underground - that is used as a "party" room where fondue is served, spirits are imbibed, a good time is had and the troubles of the world are left outside the door. Bad juju is not welcome in the Carnotzet. But first.....a visit to Charlie Chaplin's grave, the festival/market that takes place every Saturday for some wine tasting, some walking around, some local history....and always...some views. Afterwards - the Vineyards.
First - we popped a couple streets over to a local cemetery that receives more visitors than normal due to one illustrious resident (or two) - Monsieur Charlie Chaplin, his lovely wife, Oona, and Sylvain's grandmother.. The graves are well-marked and there are coins from different countries covering the tops of the graves. There is a story that when Charlie first died in the 70's, his body was stolen from the grave. After much haggling - and some money changing hands - the body was returned and re-buried (this time under an enormous pile of rocks). eventually things settled down and the graves now look like "normal" ones. Mr. Chaplin and his wife made Vevey their home for 18 years or so - and apparently Charlie was quite shy.....and didn't speak much French. He is everywhere in this little town....on the sides of buildings, statues by the lake, a road named for him, a park bearing his name, etc. Forget the Nestle headquarters....Charlie Chaplin lived here!!!
Parked up at St. Martin...a lovely church you could see from my bedroom and walked down a secret back alley way to the Marche. The Marche was great - got to see those long Swiss horns (like in the Riccola commercial) played and an old guy - dressed in a traditional Swiss costume - do a little number with a big flag that he swung and tossed to the music from the Riccola horns. Took lots of pictures of this little piece of entertainment and then off we went again....this time, to the Vevey History Museum...also the site of the Confrerie des Vignerons to learn about the Fete des Vignerons....a SUPER huge celebration that only takes place every 22-25 years (once in a generation) for the wine people of the region. It has traditionally been the winemakers' way of saying "thank you" to the workers and the people who make this industry to viable in the region. The first one was held in 1797 after the founding of the Confrerie in 1791. I got to watch excerpts from the last Fete held in 1999 while touring the museum- it is like the Opening Ceremonies of the Olympics. A pavilion is constructed to hold 16,000 people who will gather for 3 weeks during the summer to party and celebrate that great drink, which is wine!! Preparation begins 3 years in advance - there are over 5,000 actors and dancers who perform.....and clearly I need to be in attendance next time this 'do is done. Jean-Louis, Sylvain's dad, has attended each one since the 1955 celebration!!
What is this Confrerie des Vignerons?? It is the Winegrower's Brotherhood and they are in "The Search for Perfection". Hmmmm....perhaps they should think about a loftier catch-phrase?
Over 300 hectares are graded 3x/year....looking for those who simply "stand out". The first grade is given in early April - they are looking at the size of the vine and the health of the stalk at this point. The vines are just beginning to re-awaken from the Winter. The second grade occurs in mid-summer. Here, they are checking for dead stalks, how the clusters and bunches look, the soil and the "horizontal lines" of the vineyard itself. I particularly liked the term "fondle the clusters"...and this is exactly what they did! The 3rd grade - and most important - is conducted at the beginning of September as the grapes quietly matured in late August. They are checking once more to make sure there are no diseases or parasites present, how the grapes and clusters have matured and the overall aspects of the vineyard are considered in matters of production. The winner is honored by his peers and the industry.
A unique fact about the vineyards of Lavaux is that they are said to benefit from "Trois Soleils" - 3 suns....
1. The direct sun above
2. The residual warmth from the walls at night
3. The reflection of the sun off the lake
We trekked back up to the car and set off for Lavaux - me, in search of the perfect photo and the "moment". It had started to get a little cloudy but everything still looked beautiful. We drove up into the heart of Lavaux, cresting hills, winding around hairpin turns, creeping through the towns - all the while, I kept wanting to shout, "STOP!! Let me out to look at this....I want to take a picture!!" I kept being told that we were heading to a "perfect" place and that there was more to come. Alas, we never really stopped at that one perfect view....I saw lots of them, but we didn't stop so that I could really soak it in. We decided to go up to Mt. Pellerin for a view and a glass of wine - it was getting towards the end of the day and we had a date with the Carnotzet at 6pm.
The wine was wonderful, the view fantastic and the company even better. Sylvain and I rode the Funicular down the mountain and hoofed it back to the house and our promised fondue. The Fondue did not disappoint.....
If I have not stressed it enough yet, let me reiterate what a wonderful host Monsieur Jean-Louis Herminjard was (as well as his son...not to be forgotten!). He was always cooking something, buying something for me, pointing out a landmark or just smiling a huge, content smile. The Fondue night was entirely his doing - and one that will go down on my list of "best life experiences". As I said earlier, the day had started off with grim news of the market. This has never before really affected me....now, it does. I knew there was nothing I could do about it, but I was still down. Good thing the Carnotzet has a "rule" that you check your troubles at the door....because that is exactly what I did!!
After being served Swiss beers outside under the covered "porch" (that Jean-Louis built himself), we were told "It was ready". We trooped inside - me, Sylvain and Sylvain's brother Vincent. We were greeted with a big, bubbling pot of heavenly smelling cheese....being stirred with a handmade wooden spoon that had the Swiss Cross cut out of the spoon. Apparently Sylvain made this spoon many years ago and it is still being used to stir the cheese ;) Wine was poured...copious amounts of it....and all from the vineyards we had just driven through - much fondue was eaten - and laughter shook the walls constantly. I have figured out this Swiss fondue thing....it is just a way to fill your stomach up so that you can then indulge in tasting every kind of eau de vie, whisky, wine, brandy, absinthe, schnapps, rum, etc. that can be found in a Swiss liquor cabinet....or at least the cabinet of a man who loves the variety of alcohol and enjoys it not to get drunk but for the taste and the craftsmanship that goes into each bottle. The drinking commenced and I'm happy to say I stood toe to toe with Jean-Louis....sipping, tasting, laughing and enjoying his collection. He and I both like the smoky whiskys from Western Scotland. Sylvain took a picture of this spectacle - you can view it on Facebook....yes, I tried all the bottles in the picture except the big bottle I'm hanging onto for dear life (no, I did not get drunk in this man's house....that would have been inappropriate...but I did sample it ALL).
Kirsch, Mandarin Grappa, normal Grappa, Eau de Vies - Apricot, Mirabelle, Apple, Pear, Chestnut, Absinthe, Lagavulin, Dahlwhinnie, Glenfiddich, Abelour.....mmmmmmm.....
After another restful night and an incomparable view to wake up to...I knew it was time to leave - off for Amsterdam. But first.....fresh croissants from the local bakery. Then, Jean-Louis asked me to please stay for lunch because he wanted to make me his specialty.....Saffron Risotto with Mushrooms.....ummmm, YES PLEASE!! That is the great thing about traveling with no set timeline....it didn't matter what time I got to Basel, b/c I was just hanging out there for a night before the jaunt to Amsterdam.
To kill some time before the risotto AND because the sun had decided to really come out....Sylvain and I dashed back downtown in search of postcards (none were found) and then back up into the vineyards for "The Picture". We got back there and started to wind our way down but I kept howling that we needed to be going "up" not "down" for "The Picture". Sylvain agreed and we headed off in the opposite direction...suddenly, he saw a turn-off that looked good and zipped the car around. My jaw dropped...."The Picture" was spread out before me.....shining sun, sparkling lake, green, green, green vineyards as far as the eye could see.....Oh My God....it was gorgeous. And Sylvain just stood there smiling as I scrambled up onto a wall and squealed. We were totally alone up there, no other tourist, no other cars....just the Lavaux vineyards that I have wanted to see for years. And now I had them....literally, Picture Perfect....capital "P", capital "P". He knew I had finally gotten what I wanted and what I had been unable to find the day before. My expectations were officially met and exceeded!! Me seeing this view is also on FB, courtesy of Sylvain who snapped many, many pictures of me and my bad haircut. Anyways, Risotto time!!!
Of course the Risotto was perfect - along with a delicious Pinot Noir from the area...and then Jean-Louis went back in after we got to talking about cheese and brought out 2 cheeses he had purchased recently that had just been made by a friend of his up in the mountains....and would I please try them.....Hmmmmmm, don't mind if I do! Finished the meal with Swiss chocolate...of which Jean-Louis pressed 4 bars into my hands as I was leaving and wouldn't hear of it being "too much". I think he knew how much I loved his country, his town, his home and his life. I can only hope to return the favor in Nashville some day.....
I know this posting has been more of a "re-counting" hour by hour of my time in Switzerland...and maybe not as caustic, dry, etc....but it was one of the best experiences of my life and I will forever be grateful for the welcome I experienced and the way I felt when leaving....a feeling that I could go back anytime I wanted to. It felt like a "rejuvenation facility" after the hustle and bustle of France.
However, Switzerland is SOOOO EXPENSIVE!!! I cannot afford to spend any real time there....seriously....6 Swiss Francs for a little tube of toothpaste....that is like $8 or $9. Seriously. Our large pizza, 2 salads and 3 beers was 78 Swiss Francs....that is over $110....for LUNCH!!!! I was relieved to reach Amsterdam and recede out of sticker shock....
And so we find ourselves in Amsterdam.....come back for more!!
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