Viva la France!! I left the "safe" island of Great Britain where the language was not a problem and popped down to Beauvais, France. Beauvais - I'm sorry to say - was quite unimpressive. Perhaps I didn't see her lovely bits - I only saw her industrial, graffiti'd, shut-down bits. However, a quiet room with a big bed was welcome after 2 nights in a Hostel. For those of you reading this not on Facebook, there was a rumor that one of the beds in my original room had bedbugs...you wouldn't believe how quickly I DEMANDED to be moved to another room...and IMMEDIATELY mind you. That doesn't mean that hotels can't have bedbugs - but at least the information is not up in my face.
First things first - I picked up my car at the airport from a snooty little guy named Hubert (HEW-BEAR). It wasn't just me being sensitive, Hubert and I almost had real American words when he refused to get into detail about insurance coverage on the car. EVEN AFTER I explained to him why I kept asking questions, he was un-moved. Ahem...readers, HEW-BEAR was an asshole. It sucked for me that when I finally found the car - HEW-BEAR gave me the wrong lot # - because I had just assumed (what is it they say about the word assume...don't do it b/c it makes an "ass" out of "u" and "me") - that the car would be "fine". Nope. French cars are a little different than American cars - rather than a P,R, N, D1, D2, etc. - they have R,N,A,M....no P. Huh??? I get the R and the N...what is A and M?? Let's just say that it took me almost 45 minutes to even PULL OUT of the parking lot. I did find the "P" - it is a little button you pull-up located in the center console. Of course!! Why did I think that a function as important as parking would have a "gear" or a lever in a prominent place rather than a little button?? I set the GPS and off I went......SCREECH!!!! UH-OH...what is this car saying?? Stupid me, the GPS was telling me where to go....EN FRANCAIS!! This had to be remedied. It only took me another 30 minutes or so to figure it out...this is where High School French saved me!! I may not speak the language, but I can still read it pretty decently....at least enough to order on a menu, understand the street signs and change the GPS to speak English....we're now really off for a French adventure.
I'll spare you the details of Night 1 in Beauvais - there is nothing to say.
Day 2 - Having no wi-fi as promised on Night 1 left me really ready for an adventure - I didn't know where I was going, what I was going to see or where I was going to stay. I was doing it in true "Bro" style!! I had hoped to avoid driving through Paris, but the GPS had other ideas....I made it, but I no longer have any fingernails left on either hand. At one point, I almost - literally - screamed out loud..."GET ME OUTTA HERE!!!!" Instead, the first English song yet came on the radio - Muse, Black Holes and Revelations. I cannot possibly explain how hearing this familiar song calmed me down enough to get through Gay Paree and out on the open road. I think it's b/c I just automatically started singing and was mentally transported to a better place. Who knows....but it worked!
I originally set out for either Tours or Angers. I knew there were hostels in both cities that I could explore. Down the A-something I went...another note to my readers - it is EXPENSIVE to drive on the French motorways...really expensive. Perhaps I only think this b/c I have never lived on the East Coast and dealt with tolls. So, as I approached my first toll, I got that "oh shit, what do I do here" feeling. I have discovered that if you just carefully watch what others or the people in front of you are doing, you will figure it out. Toll 1 completed. That wasn't so bad....onwards!
Even though I was headed for Tours, I pulled over at a Shell station - yes, they look the same - and pulled out my Big Guide Book for all of Europe. I refreshed myself on the Loire Valley and the various Chateaux in the area. I figured I'd let the car do what it wanted....so after a few more kilometers (oh yeah, the car registers speed in kph...not mph...Dar Dar...this took a minute as well) - I jerked the wheel and decided to get off at Chambord and start driving the back roads. So glad I did this - even though it was a gray day, the countryside was nice. Well, silly me thought I would see the Chateau at Chambord....but it is actually located somewhere else. The town of Chambord is not much to see....so I continued to Blois.
Blois - A powerful feudal stronghold in the 12th century, Blois rose to glory under Louis XII, who established his court here in 1498 (not too long after Columbus sailed the ocean blue...). The town remained at the center of French royal and political life for much of the next century. Today, Blois is the quintessential Loire town. The partly pedestrianized old quarter is full of romantic courtyards (I didn't see these) and fine mansions (or these...). The chateau at Blois was home to kings Louis XII, Francois I and Henri III - apparently no other chateau has such a sensational history as the Chateau de Blois. It was here (and I went in the room) in 1588, that the ambitious Duc de Guise, leader of the Catholic Holy Leage, was murdered on the orders of Henri III. There are 4 distinct architectural styles - I went through the architecture exhibit...but it was quite dense. Also in Blois - the 3-spired Eglise St-Nicolas and the Cathedrale St-Louis (I went to both). The 2nd church is a 17th century reproduction of a Gothic church that was almost destroyed in 1678. Don't know why....the Cathedrale was locked up. Booo. So, I walked the town of Blois, visited its Big House and had a light picnic along the river that divides the old and the new parts of town. Time to go, though...more places to see....
Remember though - I have NO map. HEW-BEAR, the asshole, wouldn't give me one and I forgot to buy one at the Shell station. This is what signs are for....Passed another Big House along the Loire....Driving, Driving - you can really go on these French roads. And I have yet to see 1 single speed cop. I'm beginning to think the cops just let the French work it out on the highways - how smart is that?
I was going to pass through Amboise, but I caught sight of their Big House out of the corner of my eye and almost screeched to a halt. WOW - it was sparkling in the sunlight that had just decided to materialize. Clearly, I was meant to stop here. I drove over the bridge and just let the car steer itself again to a lovely little garden walk along the river. I parked for free (yay), got out and just stood there wondering how I had come to find myself in such a perfect setting. A shimmering river, with 2 sailboats bobbling peacefully, at the foot of a massive chateau?? This was just too perfect. I took my book, a blanket and some fruit and cheese down to the river bank where I whiled away a couple hours just sitting, reading, eating and enjoying. I didn't have a schedule - no real place I had to be. So I stayed awhile. I didn't actually go up into the big house - after getting raped for 10.50E to see the one at Blois, I decided that I was only going to pay for one more....if I paid to see all 4, that would be ridiculous. I wandered around the city for a while, trying to decide if I wanted to stay there and then decided to push on for Tours. I wasn't in my car more than 5 minutes when I SCREECHED to another halt and jerked the car off the road into this massive field of sunflowers. I had seen these from the highway, but I hadn't seen one up close....and here one was!!! With a road between the 3 fields. I crept along the road, marveling at how pretty the flowers looked - thinking of how much Mom would have loved to have seen this. I stopped the car, got out, took some pictures and just leaned back to soak in the view for a couple more minutes.....what do you think came on the radio just then....? U2's "Pride (In the Name of Love)" .....I couldn't make this stuff up!!! Of course, I started crying...but they were "happy" tears. After the time on the embankment, this was almost too much. How is it that the pictures you have in your head actually come true? I don't know....but they did.
I finally left Amboise - it was much later than I planned to leave - and still decided to head for Tours. That was until I passed two signs for Chenonceau. I knew this was the "most famous" of the Big Houses, but I needed to get to Tours, didn't I. Nope, not really. I swung the car around after deciding that I would probably NEVER AGAIN be in this same position and it would be a shame to miss out on another possible "experience". Good thing I made that decision.
Driving to Chenonceau, I was constantly tempted to pull over at all the signs for "Caves"...i.e. Wineries. However, the couple I did pull into, were closed for the day. When I finally looked at my watch, I couldn't believe it was already 7:30pm. I almost talked myself out of going to Chenonceau - b/c I really just wanted a picture of the place. I doubted that would be possible, but who knows....
Chenonceau - I finally pulled into the parking lot promptly at 8 and was encouraged to see a fair amount of people still milling about. Surely they would let me just take a picture of the place...? Nope, and they were quite adamant about it -that will be 9.50E, please. Ughhhhh. I almost said "No" - then decided to suck it up and go ahead..even though I would only have 30 minutes to see the Big House. 15 if you count how long the driveway is. I ambled up the drive and got to the house. For those of you who have ever seen pictures of this place....I was frankly a little disappointed. I expected something absolutely massive and jaw-dropping. It's not...from the front. Its real treasure lies inside with this Loooooong room called The Grand Galerie which actually spans the River Cher. When I stepped inside, the docents WERE NOT happy to see me. 15 minutes until closing time, mind you. Oh well, if there is ever a time to bust out my "Mercis" this was it. I took FULL advantage of my 15 minutes and believe it or not....had the ENTIRE house ALL TO MYSELF!!! What a blessing for someone who hates hordes....especially hordes that contain screaming children (I won't go down that road again...)....
Chenonceau - Stretching romantically across the Riveer Cher, is considered by many to be the loveliest of the Loire chateaux (glad I came then!). Surrounded by elegant formal gardens and wooded grounds (I did see some wildlife!), this pure Renaissance building began life as a modest manor and water mill. Over the centuries, it was transformed by the wives and mistresses of its successive owners into a palace designed solely for pleasure.
The main lady was Diane de Poitiers - she was Henry II's lifelong mistress, holding court as queen of France, in all but name. Her beauty inspired many French artists, who often depicted her in the role of Diana, the Classical goddess of the hunt. In 1547, Henry offered the Big House to Diane, who improved the palace by creating the stunning formal gardens and an arched bridge over the River Cher. After Henry's accidental death in 1559, Diane was forced to leave Chenonceau by his widow, Catherine de'Medici (this was one mean woman....but I would have probably made my husband's mistress leave as well, in all fairness), in exchange for the fortress-like Chateau de Chaumont. Diane lived there until her death in 1566.
I stepped back through the doors at exactly 8:30pm and they almost knocked me in the ass while they slammed the door. Oh well - who cares. I will always savor the fact that I had that grand place to myself. I walked about the gardens for 30 more minutes, found my way in the hedge maze and then headed for the car. It was beginning to get dark and I didn't really want to drive the windy, crazy roads of France in the dark. I decided to grab some dinner and find a place to stay. Big mistake getting stuck in Chenonceau. The only places to stay were expensive for what they were and I just got stubborn. Why pay 79E for a grubby little closet when I could sleep in my car for free? I'm sure the adult readers of this will shriek, but - it was safe. And I had my knife with me ready to go. Other than being uncomfortable and a tad cold at times - it was fine. I slapped a hat on the next morning, brushed my teeth and made my way to the local patisserie for a Pain au Chocolat and a Cafe. I got there just as the bread was being delivered....mmmmmmmm - another French experience. Smelling the bread first thing in the morning. I bought some yogurt, a peach and my chocolate croissant - pulled out my book, read a little and just listened to the conversation (not understanding it, mind you) happening around me as the locals came in with their special bread bags to begin their days as well.
Alright, am I ever gonna get to Tours?? Off we go again - I only stopped in Tours briefly...I started to feel behind schedule...even though I didn't have one. I snapped a few pictures, walked the streets for an hour and then got back in the car and headed for Nantes. Nantes supposedly has a fabulous museum with wonderful paintings from the 16th-19th centuries. Right up my alley, no?? Got to Nantes, found the Musee des Beaux-Arts....and got the rude awakening that it was CLOSED!!! Arrrghhhhh....closed....on a Tuesday?? I realize there are Monday closures...but, Tuesday??!! Ughhhh. I looked at the Big House here - the Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne and the Big Church - Cathedrale St-Pierre et St-Paul, had some lunch at a local brasserie and decided to go to Carnac.
Going to Carnac was not in my original plan. I was supposed to go to Brest to stay with a couchsurfing person, but I had been unable to get a hold of the person and realized I had been stood-up for the first time. Oh well - that is why Plan B is important....except I didn't really have Plan B. Unless you call $$ or a credit card Plan B - which I do.
Carnac is a popular seaside town probably most famous as one of the world's great prehistoric sites. As long ago as 4000 BC, thousands of ancient granite rocks were arranged in mysterious lines and patterns in the countryside around Carnac by Megalithic tribes. Their purposes are uncertain, though they are thought to have religious significance or to be related to early astronomical calendars. Celts, Romans and Christians have since adapted them to their own beliefs. The rocks are called "menhirs" and I saw LOTS of them today. They are really quite cool - you don't notice that they are arranged in perfect lines until you get on the sides of them. From the front, things look like a big jumble. I got some good pictures here before they let the people in amongst them. I realize I could have paid to walk around them, but I liked having them cordoned off- made them more mysterious that way. I drove all up and down the Avenue des Alignments - stopped several times and walked around....especially when I found another sunflower field directly across from one of the rock "gardens". All in all - a very cool sight and site - definitely worth visiting and I'm so glad that I found myself here in Carnac.
Tonight - I'm going to take a walk on the beach and have myself a little dinner out on my balcony. I picked up a roast chicken at the market along with some couscous and a big heirloom tomato that I'm going to fill with said couscous. Found a great bottle of wine for almost pennies. I know I should probably head down to one of the local bars to meet some people, but I'm feeling reflective and in one of my moods where I prefer to be in the company of myself. I met several wonderful people in Edinburgh from just being out and about (alright....I mean men ;) )- a politician, a paratrooper and a data analyst. I'm going to save my charming self for Rouen where I'll be couchsurfing the 29th - 31st.
Tomorrow - I may try to see the sun rise over the Menhirs, take a quick walk on the beach, have a little breakfast and then I'll set off for Mont St-Michel and finally, Caen and Bayeux as my final destinations. Caen is the jumping off point to see Omaha Beach....I'm hoping to get there around sunset when most of the crowds will be gone. I want quiet when I visit that hallowed place.
SO - this last post brings us all up to speed. It's been A LOT of writing for me (and a lot of reading for you) - but it has allowed me to indulge in my fantasy of being a writer. It's the perfect setting, there has been good material and the sound of the waves has been music to my ears.....
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